Love & Coneys

There's a little corner in the heart of Detroit unlike any other in the city. Two main arteries, Michigan Ave. and W. Lafayette, come to a union not in the traditional square corner, but in a point, as two spokes on a wheel meet in the middle. This is not a story of brotherly love. This is a story of two brothers, a fierce rivalry, and one of Detroit's most iconic foods - the Coney.

A Coney Dog is generally agreed to consist of a hot dog, chili meat, diced onions, and a steamed bun - further condiments are optional. Fork and knife? Also optional. Napkins? Required. Detroit is known for its high density of Coney restaurants. There are over 100 in the metro area alone, but there are no two restaurants as famous as the two on that little corner in the heart of Detroit. Any Motor City foodie knows whether their loyalty lies with the American or Lafayette Coney Island.

It all started in the 1910's, the exponential growth of Detroit's auto industry would soon propel its population to the rank of fourth largest city in the USA. The influx of blue-collar workers needed cheap protein and high caloric meals. Gust Keros, a Greek immigrant, certainly didn't invent the idea, but managed to capitalize on the ever-popular trend of American Hot Dogs. What started as a mobile cart, became a steadfast (and eventually iconic) fixture on the Detroit landscape in 1917 when he officially opened American Coney Island where it still stands today.

Business boomed and Gust soon arranged for his brother to immigrate from Greece. The two worked in partnership until 1924 when suddenly Bill opened Lafayette Coney Island in the building - literally - next door. The two brothers, former partners, now neighbors, became each other's biggest competitor. And from the very beginning, clientele were fiercely loyal to their favorite Coney.

Today, nearly 100 years later, not all that much has changed in the day-to-day operations of these Coney Islands. They still thrive in cramped quarters, still serve hot dogs from behind a shiny metallic counter. The word greasy could be used to describe more than just the hot dogs. Sure, the bare walls of either restaurant are now covered with photos of international celebrities, hometown athletes, and famous politicians who have eaten there - but the squeaky metal stools are still occupied by loyal customers, some of whom have held their allegiance for decades.

On my most recent visit, I introduced an out-of-town relative to the tradition. As we strolled beneath the towering storefronts, we were politely interrupted by an elderly couple leaving the Lafayette Coney Island. The woman smiled ever so sweetly, then shared unprompted, "We’ve been coming in for over 45 years. You've come to the right place - Lafayette is far and away the best Coney. Don't even bother with next door". Her two cents noted, content with her meal, she took her husband’s hand and they began their evening stroll.

Not everyone so readily agrees with this loyal patron. Politicians hesitate to commit their loyalties in print. The Food Network and Travel Channel both chose American Coney Island in their blind taste tests. In all honesty, you really can't go wrong with either (or both!). But for myself, well... I am a Lafayette guy.